Forget flashy Como – I found Italy’s best lake that’s cheaper with fewer tourists

Gergana Krasteva

Rome: Tourists armed with selfie sticks outside glittering mansions. Queues winding outside Instagram-famous restaurants. Impatient waiters shouting orders. Relentless noise.

This is the mayhem I expected from my visit to Lake Maggiore, the second largest lake in Italy that stretches into Switzerland.

Over-tourism has long been a problem at neighbouring Lake Como, so my expectations for a relaxing holiday to the Italian lakeside were low.

Yet, I am pleasantly surprised. Compared to its flashier sister, Maggiore is bigger, but less crowded and more affordable. It is, I am told, where Italians choose to holiday in summer.

Sun-drenched piazzas are filled with locals sipping frothy cappuccinos in the morning and apperitivo in the afternoon. There is no battle for boat tickets and visitors seem to be taking in the scenery at a leisurely pace

My first day in Lake Maggiore is spent in Stresa, one of the towns attracting the most interest of foreigners.

Quaint cobbled streets and luxury hotels like Grand Hôtel des Îles Borromées, where Hemingway once stayed, are just part of the allure. Most people visit for the nearby Borromean Islands.

Boats run from the waterfront in Stresa and from there, it is a 20-minute to Isola Bella, a crescent-shaped island nicknamed the ‘Pearl of the Ionian Sea’.

Out of the three main Borromean islands, it is perhaps the most famous, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors every year.

I had seen a lot of Isola Bella on TikTok, but nothing could have prepared me for the grandeur.

It is home to the 16th-century Borromeo Palace (entry €18), the residence of the Borromeo family, one of Italy’s most known aristocrats.

Over the centuries, some of Europe’s most notable figures have stayed at one of the 50 rooms, from Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife, Joséphine de Beauharnais, to British Prime Minister Ramsay MacDonald.

Today, no one lives there, but both the palace and the majestic gardens are open to the public.

Intricate frescoes, Murano chandeliers and Flemish tapestries hark back to the mansion’s aristocratic past. There is also an impressive collection of paintings and marble sculptures, showcasing the wealth that once flowed through the family.

Metro’s top tip: Leave enough time for the Italian gardens that surround the palace and overlook Lake Maggiore. The top terrace – one of 10 – offers a panoramic view of the other Borromean Islands and the rolling hills of the Alps in the distance.

Isola Madre, also known for its botanical gardens, and Isola dei Pescatori, a charming fishing village, are the other two nearby islands worth visiting. I can spend an entire day exploring their alleyways and watching the fishing boats drifting in the distance.

After being spoiled by the magnificence of Isola Bella, I cannot imagine staying anywhere but Castello Dal Pozzo, on the outskirts of the town of Arona.

Nestled in the Alpine foothills, the five-star resort is hidden from the crowds, though at the start of September, the area is quieter than expected.

Originally built as a fortress, Castello Dal Pozzo was later transformed into an aristocratic residence by the noble Dal Pozzo family, who still own and run the estate.

Today, it operates as a luxury hotel with manicured bedrooms, marble bathrooms and underfloor heating, yet somehow it still feels like staying in their private home. The walls are covered with centuries-old heirlooms and antique portraits belonging to the family, transporting you back several centuries.

Legends also claim that the castle is haunted by ghost of Barbara Visconti, from the noble Visconti family of Milan.

I am told she fell in love with a soldier beneath her status and was locked away in the castle by her father to prevent the scandal. She is said to have died of heartbreak, and her spirit is rumoured to wander the halls waiting searching for her love Matteo.

It may have been the comfort of my mattress or all the red wine I gulped at dinner, but no spirits bothered me at night.

Metro’s top tip: Even if you are not staying at Castello Dal Pozzo, do visit the enchanting woodland that surrounds the grounds. Enjoy lunch or just a refreshment at the Dan Garden Lounge.

Known as Italy’s fashion and financial capital, Milan is a cosmopolitan city bursting with life.

There is so much to see and experience, from Duomo di Milano, one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world, and the adjacent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy’s oldest shopping arcade, to the football stadiums of AC Milan and Inter Milan.

The city is also home to Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘The Last Supper’, housed in the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, and offers a renowned art scene with galleries like the Fondazione Prada. Why have I given myself only 12 hours to see it?

Milan is within easy reach from most London airports, so I know that I can easily return for a weekend. My trip also falls right in the middle of Milan Fashion Week when the city is transformed into a battleground for fashion influencers, photographers and designers.

I spend the day rushing from the Duomo di Milano and Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology to the hip neighbourhood of Naviglio, filled with art galleries and vintage shops. It is a hectic day but I try to add as much as possible to the itinerary to get the most of this enchanting city.

Flights from London to Milan start at just £27. Ryanair, Wizz Air, easyJet and British Airways are just some of the airlines with direct routes to the city. Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol and Edinburgh offer at least one flight per day.

I find peace at dinner at Acanto at the Principe di Savoia, in the heart of the city. Located on the ground floor of the 301-room hotel, the restaurant is an epitome of Italian luxury with its elegant chandeliers and marble walls.

The menu is overwhelming – chestnut tagliolini, black ravioli with cuttlefish and salt-crusted Mediterranean seabass. I want to try everything – so I am only relieved when head chef Matteo Gabrielli twists my arm and I agree to have the six-course tasting menu, which starts at over £100. If he insists, then I shall.

He retreats to the kitchen, framed by sleek glass walls at the far end of the dining room. I observe from my table as his culinary brigade moves with precision, every chop and stir unfolding like a choreographed dance.

One by one, intricate Milanese dishes are brought, each as impressive as the next. They are so beautiful, it seems like a sin to eat them, but I dig in regardless. My favourite is a perfectly rich nettle soup served in a Faberge-like egg and deep-fried parmigiana with a rich tomato sauce.

The dinner ends with a taste of Acanto’s scrumptious desserts. A selection of sorbets, a scrumptious strawberry pavlova and a chocolate mousse-like cake spin in front of me.

Of course, Milan is famous for its food scene, so I am not surprised by the artistry at Acanto. There are also plenty of budget options to try that are so worth the trip. Le Polveri for pastries; Radetzky for apperitivo; Trattoria Madonnina for an old-school Milanese dishes; L’Antica Pizzeria for pizza.

The list could go on and on, but my time in Milan does not. I hope to return very soon to explore more of this city.